Pandemic travel: A yurt in Norfolk

By July 2020, like most of the world, I was ready for a holiday. I needed a change – I was tired of sleeping in the same bed, sitting on the same sofa, eating at the same table and seeing the same sights on my walks. I also needed a break; because there seemed to be no good reason not to, I had worked through the Easter and May half-term holidays, when I’d normally go away. Weekdays and weekends were blurring into one. I needed some time away from work, chores and the daily grind – which had obviously been proving difficult during lockdown.

Things had already started to change in the wider world: shops had been open for a couple of weeks, pubs and restaurants had just opened and we were finally allowed to spend the night away from home. But although we were yet to hear of the official cancellation of our holiday to Corfu, we knew that it wasn’t going to happen as our apartments had decided not to open. And although holidays abroad were now happening generally speaking, we just didn’t feel comfortable about it. No judgement on those who decided to go for it – in hindsight, with cases as relatively low as they actually were at the time (in comparison to now, at least), perhaps we should have taken the plunge. But we didn’t like the idea of being on a plane for hours with people who could have had the virus, nor did we want to be in an airport. We were very concerned about what would happen if any of us were to catch the virus while we were away, and we were worried about the possible need to quarantine on return – things were constantly changing (as they tend to do in a pandemic), with different rules for different countries, and it was just one unnecessary risk too many.

So that left us looking at the UK. We booked a cottage in the Yorkshire Dales for August, when we should have been in Corfu, but my husband had a few days more to book off work and we wanted to go somewhere sooner – it had been a long time, after all! Only staying for a few days, however, is a little limiting. A lot of the cottages that we looked at were booked up or wanted us to stay for a week minimum during the summer holidays. Normally for a short break we’d head to a Premier Inn or similar. However, because of the virus, we weren’t massively comfortable with the idea of staying in a hotel. We weren’t so much worried about the room but we were a little concerned about communal areas. More importantly, it left us a bit stuck for food – where normally we’d go out for dinner (happily – great excuse!), we weren’t comfortable with eating indoors in public spaces. We’d spent the last few months being told not to go near anyone, and while we had graduated to a place of being okay eating in pub gardens, we hadn’t got to the indoors bit yet. This, of course, left us with self-catering – which was the plan for our cottage later in the summer. We thought about camping, which is a big self-catering favourite of ours but is less appealing for a short break. Our tent is big and takes a long time to put up – not so bad for a week, but time-consuming when you’re only going for a few days, especially when we couldn’t leave until the afternoon, as my husband was working a half-day.

We eventually settled on a yurt in Norfolk as a compromise: all the self-contained benefits of camping but without the hassle of putting up a tent or inflating airbeds! We booked a four-person yurt at the Waveney River Centre in Burgh St Peter on the Norfolk Broads, which also offers ‘escape pods’, standard camping/caravanning and a variety of other holiday accommodation. We’d always shunned such things as yurts and pre-erected tents before, not really seeing the point. If you’ve got your own tent and camping equipment, why pay so much more to sleep in one that someone else has prepared for you, even if it is a bit more comfortable?! But actually, this worked out perfectly for us. It had a double bed and a sofa bed for the children, and although we had to bring our own linen/sleeping bags, it was a lot more comfy than our usual air bed! It had a couple of chests of drawers – just a little thing but when you’re basic campers like we are, it was quite exciting to have something into which to unpack our clothes, plus a few surfaces to put things on! It had electricity and lights – no more torches and charging everything up in the car. It had a couple of chairs and a picnic table on decking outside, so we had our own area where we could cook and eat. And, most importantly, it had not just an electric heater but also a wood burning stove! Now you might think that, in July, we wouldn’t need one – but you’d be wrong. The nights were chilly and having a heater (a luxury we’ve never had when camping) was an absolute godsend. We used the stove too on the first night, but never again – my goodness, it kicked out a lot of heat! I ended up sitting on the floor to avoid the rising heat, but it would be lovely and cosy if you were camping in colder weather.

So what did we still need to bring? Well, sleeping bags and pillows for a start, as mentioned earlier (or sheets and duvets – whatever floats your boat!). A camping stove. Pots and pans, kettle, plates, cutlery and all the usual cooking equipment – plus food, of course! I honestly think that was pretty much it, as far as camping stuff goes – although I mustn’t forget to mention my camping toilet! Now over the years this has become an essential. As a woman of a certain age, it’s a foregone conclusion that I’ll need the loo in the night at least once (usually more!) during the holiday – and it’s not nice leaving the tent in the middle of the night to walk across the campsite (sometimes a long way!) to the toilet block in your PJs. So eventually we invested in a camping toilet – basically a bucket with a toilet seat and a lid. In our tent, this is fine – we put it in the (enclosed!) porch and I have somewhere to go out of the way in private. But how was this going to work in a yurt with all four of us sleeping in the same room? I didn’t really fancy one of the boys waking in the night and getting an eyeful (hopefully not literally) at the wrong moment! So I bought a toilet tent – one of those pop-up things that you basically use to go to the toilet in private. It was honestly the funniest thing setting it up in the yurt – it was huge and had to come down during the day – but it worked a treat for night-time toilet visits, with space for toilet roll and anti-bac and even somewhere to hang a torch. Honestly – best buy ever.

The toilet tent – best buy ever!

The main question at that time, of course, was how Covid-safe our holiday was. We were obviously able to do our own cooking with our own equipment, so that wasn’t a worry. There were very few items in the yurt for potential touch-contamination. The site’s Covid policy stated that everything had been cleaned extra thoroughly but we went over it all with Dettol just to be extra safe – after which, unlike a hotel, we knew that we were the only people touching anything inside our accommodation. However, the yurt didn’t come with a shower or toilet (apart from my bucket!), which meant that we did have to use some communal facilities – as well as the washing-up area. This was unavoidable in the yurt, although I know people who have gone camping and even brought their own shower facilities! I wasn’t too worried though. My reasoning was that you’d be touching very little in the toilet anyway and the last thing that you’ll do is wash your hands – and washing is the whole point of a shower! Of course, being near other people is also a risk – probably more of a risk than touching contaminated surfaces. However, this risk was minimised by every other toilet and sink being cordoned off in the toilet area to avoid you being too close together, as well as leaving the door open for ventilation. The risk in the showers was even further reduced by basically having your own room, rather than a cubicle in a shared bathroom. There were also plenty of hand gel dispensers dotted around, particularly next to doors, so it was always easy to disinfect after opening or closing one (if it wasn’t open already). We also brought a big bottle of anti-bac gel for the yurt so that we could still ‘wash our hands’ as soon as we got home from anywhere! All in all, although nowhere could be deemed 100 per cent safe, we certainly felt that our chances of catching Covid while at Waveney were pretty low.

The biggest risks came not from the yurt or the holiday site but from days out – the more you get out and about, the more you come into contact with other people, the more things that you touch and the more virus you’re potentially exposed to. We stayed safe (as far as we could) and avoided indoors, choosing to go for walks, hire a boat and eat outside. Of course, we ended up in some places that were busy and took risks every time we used a public toilet or ate in a pub garden, but we did our best to mitigate the risks by hand-washing frequently, wearing a mask if we ever did have to go inside and trying to keep as far away from people as possible. I figured that we were taking no more risk than we would have done if we’d stayed at home rather than go on holiday, as we would still have ended up going out out and about – in fact, if anything, we were probably more careful on holiday, as we were more aware of the risks. There were plenty of Covid-safe activities to do in the area – and there are no doubt many more less Covid-friendly options too, for when life finally gets back to normal. If I can get organised, I’ll write about these in another blog post! In the meantime, if you are looking for somewhere to stay in the UK this summer when things hopefully start opening up again, and especially if you are still being cautious – or perhaps if we are still very restricted – then ‘camping’ in a yurt is a great option, and I’d highly recommend Waveney River Centre as a brilliant Covid-safe option!

Magical municipals

Over the last 12 years, I’ve stayed at an awful lot of French campsites. I’d hate to hazard a guess at how many but, given that we used to spend up to five weeks travelling from campsite to campsite, often only staying a night or two before moving on, I can guarantee the number is well into the double figures. With number comes diversity – we’ve stayed in a lot of different types of campsite. We’ve stayed in all-singing, all-dancing campsites, like Le Soleil in Argeles-sur-Mer, with 800+ pitches, a pool, kids club, restaurant and a host of other facilities. At the other end of the scale, we’ve also stayed in small, quiet campsites, such as Les Portes du Trièves near Grenoble, where the toilet/washing block and reception are the only facilities. Of course, we’ve also stayed at lots somewhere in between, and the truth is that we like all types. They all serve a purpose – sometimes it’s good to have somewhere quiet, where you’re guaranteed to get a pitch and a good night’s sleep. Sometimes it’s nice to stay somewhere buzzy, where you can swim or eat out without leaving the campsite and the kids are always entertained.

The swimming pool at Le Soleil in the south of France

With diversity in size and facilities, of course, also comes diversity in price – and we have found a huge range of prices throughout our campsite experiences. On the whole, we’ve found camping to be cheaper in France than in the UK, paying over 50 euros a night for some of the bigger campsites but as little as 10 euros in some of the smaller ones. The cheapest campsites, we’ve discovered, tend to be municipals. For those who have never come across these before, municipal campsites are owned by the local authority and you can find them in most towns and large villages. They tend to be on the outskirts, but it is usually walkable to the town/village and thus to any facilities you may need. The campsites themselves tend to be low on facilities, as you would expect for a low price: you should find decent sanitary and washing up facilities, probably a couple of washing machines and maybe a children’s playground – and that’s probably it. However, you will often find that you are given free or reduced access to the local swimming pool and occasionally other local facilities (we’ve been offered free mini-golf and reduced cinema tickets in the past). Unless you have a desperate need for bells and whistles on site, municipal campsites make the perfect base for exploring France. You’re likely to find one near most major sites and attractions, and you can usually walk into the town for dinner if you don’t fancy campsite cooking.

Municipal campsite in Autun
Free municipal swimming pool in La Roche-Chalais
Municipal campsite in Gignac

Having just said that municipal campsites are low on facilities, there are exceptions. We had stayed at La Hallerais, just outside Dinan in Brittany, at least three times before we realised it was a municipal campsite. It has a small heated pool, tennis courts, a playground, table tennis and mini-golf, all free of charge. It also has a restaurant, a games room and a small shop, plus a large, well-staffed reception area. We returned (and still do) for several reasons: we really like the location, with its beautiful riverside walk into Dinan; it has good facilities and plenty to keep the children occupied; and the toilets and showers are some of the biggest and cleanest we’ve come across! But another huge draw has always been the price: a pitch for a tent and a family of four is just over 20 euros per night at the time of writing – and that’s including all the facilities mentioned above! We had always wondered why it was so cheap compared to other similar campsites, until all was explained when we noticed the word ‘municipal’ on its website. So while you won’t get anything on the Eurocamp level at a municipal campsite (or at a Eurocamp price!), there are bigger, more facilitied (is that a word?!) municipals out there if you look, so don’t assume they’re only for those who like a basic campsite!

One of our many pitches at La Hallerais over the years
Kids’ swimming pool at La Hallerais
Wildflowers at La Hallerais
The riverside path from the campsite into Dinan

Even if you’re not keen on spending the night under canvas, you don’t have to rule out municipal campsites. Just like Eurocamp, municipal campsites do mobile homes too – and at a fraction of the cost! As a general rule, you can expect your mobile home to have a fully equipped kitchen, with a fridge, hobs and microwave (but no oven or dishwasher – sorry!), a toilet and shower, indoor and outdoor table and seating, and separate bedrooms for you and the kids (if travelling with a family). They cover all your needs – you have all the facilities you need in the home itself, plus you get to use the campsite facilities too – laundry, playground and whatever else you need. Hey, you can even use the campsite toilets and showers if yours are being used! You’ll need to bring your own towels and sheets (although they can often be provided at a cost) but otherwise you have everything you need right there. It’s drier than a tent, more private than a hostel and cheaper than Airbnb – what’s not to love?! Just as an example, we recently spent a week in a mobile home in a municipal campsite at La Roche-Chalais in the Dordogne – it cost 190 euros for the four of us. A Eurocamp mobile home in the Dordogne over the same period would normally cost around £1,000. Yes, you’d get more facilities – but are they really worth £800 a week?! As with the price of camping, you can expect to pay more for a mobile home in those campsites with more facilities or in particularly desirable locations. Either way, it’s an extremely cheap way to holiday if you don’t like tents!

Our mobile home in the Dordogne

A few final tips: firstly, the Michelin guide to camping in France is particularly helpful for finding campsites, municipal or not. Secondly, you won’t always find a website – or at least, not a very good one! – for municipal campsites; be prepared to do a bit of digging, emailing or even phoning. Thirdly, as municipal campsites don’t tend to be frequented much by British tourists, the staff often speak no or limited English. If you speak a little French, it does come in very handy – if not, make Google Translate your friend! Finally, if travelling with children during the summer holidays, the middle to end of August is the cheapest time to go. What’s classified as high season varies in France, but the middle of August onwards is apparently mid-season in the Dordogne, with Brittany following suit a week later – travelling at the beginning of August would have meant paying high-season prices, so it’s a potential saving of £100-200 a week to travel a bit later!

Sadly, I’ve not come across municipal campsites anywhere other than France, although I hear that Portugal has a similar system. But if you fancy a cheap French adventure, give them a go – after all, money saved on your accommodation means more money for eating, days out and, of course, your next holiday!